SITES OF INTEREST
Perhaps the best way to enjoy San Miguel de Allende is to walk its cobblestoned streets lined with beautiful old churches and colonial mansions. Some of the major attractions you will come across are:
EL JARDÍN-PLAZA PRINCIPAL
This central, plaza is, in more ways that one, the heart of the city. To the south loom the spires of San Miguel’s landmark Parroquia, to the east and west lie colonnades of arches and historic buildings from the colonial era, to the north stands the Presidencia, or historic city hall. The park draws visitoris to sit and gossip on the wrought iron benches shaded by boxy laurel trees, to pause and listen to musicians playing from its central gazebo and to line the walls to cheer one of the town’s many parades.
PRESIDENCIA MUNICIPAL
This building was originally constructed in 1736, but little of the original architecture remains. Nonetheless, it remains historically significant as it was the site of the formation of Mexico’s first independent city council, installed by Father Hidalgo and Ignacio Allende and led by Ignacio Aldama, on September 17 1810.
LA PARROQUIA DE SAN MIGUEL ARCÁNGEL
The original Parish Church, built in the late 17th century, was of relatively conventional and modest design. This changed quite dramatically in 1880 when the master stone mason, Seferino Gutierrez was commissioned to create a new facade. A self-taught architect, Gutierrez is reported to have taken the inspiration for his design from drawings, engravings and postcards of European cathedrals. The resulting neogothic fantasy, whose soaring turrets can be viewed from almost any spot in town, have made the Parroquia one of the most photographed churches in Mexico.
MUSEO CASA DE IGNACIO ALLENDE
This two-story baroque building dates back to the 18th century and, with its intricate stone and iron work, is a remarkable example of the homes built by the wealthy colonial nobility. It was the birthplace of Ignacio Allende and now functions as a museum with exhibits highlighting Allende’s role in the struggle for independence and the history and archeology of the region surrounding San Miguel de Allende.
CASA DEL MAYORAZGO DE LA CANAL
This neoclassical mansion, once the home of the wealthy and influential de la Canal family, now houses a branch of a bank. It’s a enormous carved wooden main door (found on Canal Street) is evidence not only of the skill of colonial woodworkers but of the status and heritages of the familiy.
TEMPLO DE LA INMACULADA CONCEPCIÓN
This church is known locally as “Las Monjas” (the Nuns), as it was originally constructed as part of an extensive complex housing, as it does today, a convent for the Sisters of the Immaculate Conception. The church was built between 1755 and 1842, and the elegant dome was added by Seferino Gutiérrez in 1891. Again he modeled his construction on that of a European landmark –the dome is very similar to that of the Church of Les Invalides in Paris.
CENTRO CULTURAL IGNACIO RAMÍREZ “EL NIGROMANTE”
The center originally served as the cloister for the adjoining convent; today it is a Mexican national Art Institute and thus dubbed locally as “Bellas Artes”. The center offers classes in painting, drawing, sculpture, music and dance, and is know for its large, if unfinished, mural by celebrated Mexican painter David Alfaro Siqueiros, a former teacher. The large compound houses a museum, auditorium, two art galleries, and a charming courtyard café.
TEATRO ÁNGELA PERALTA
Originally designed as an opera house, the theater was inaugurated in 1873 with a performance by Mexico’s most famous soprano of the day: Angela Peralta, “The Mexican Nightingale”. Over 130 years later it is an elegant venue for national and international artists who perform in such varied events as the international Jazz or Chamber Music Festivals.
BIBLIOTECA PÙBLICA
This is Mexico’s second largest English language library, which is also dedicated to enriching the lives of local students. The rambling building contains a restful inner courtyard, fantastically decorated reading room, café, theater and computer center offering instruction and wireless internet service.
MERCADO DE ARTESANÌAS
The original craft market is a pedestrian walkway, rambling over three blocks, where vendors sell local folk art and crafts, silver jewelry, decorative items, inexpensive souvenirs and quite a bit more.
PLAZA CÌVICA
Built in 1555, and named Plaza de la Soledad, it was this plaza, not the Jardìn, that was the hub of the town’s activity –it has been both market place and meeting place in its time. Today the renamed plaza is dominated by a large equestrian statue of Ignacio Allende, the building on the northeast corner was once the College of San Francisco de Sales attended by the revolutionary heroes Aldama, Umarán and Allende.
ORATORIO DE SAN FELIPE NERI
Construction of this church in 1712, when a older chapel, owned by the town’s mulatto population, was ‘appropiated’ for the purpose. The Original chapel, now makes up the eastern end of the church, the more modern baroque facade of soft pink stone is to the south. The church also houses a side chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Loreto by the de la Canal family in 1735, a replica of the Santa Casa (Holy House) found in Italy. It is noted for its fantastically ornate decoration and elaborately gilded walls and altars.
TEMPLO DE NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LA SALUD
The church of Our Lady of Health dates back to the 18th century when it served as a chapel for the adjacent college. Its is noted for its churrigueresque facade crown by a gigantic carved seashell. This was once centered by a single eye enclosed in a triangle; an ancient symbol for God’s all-seing presence.
TEMPLO DE SAN FRANCISCO
Beginning in 1778, this church was over 20 years in construction and the changing tastes of the times can be clearly seen in its architecture. The facade is pure Churrigueresque, with a plethora of carved stone figures and downward tapering columns. However, the bell tower, built in 1779 by the famed architect Francisco Eduardo Tresguerras, is of the neoclassical style that had then become fashionable.
EL CHORRO
Built around one of San Miguel’s oldest and most ankle-twisting streets, this small peaceful park climbs to the natural spring, colonial bathhouse, church and ancient chapel located at the top of the hill. Legend has it that the first Christian ceremony in San Miguel was held in this chapel.
PARQ UE BENITO JUÁREZ
This large and leafy green park is an oasis from the city’s bustle, where children can play and adults stroll and relax. It was founded at the turn of the 20th century and designed in the French style with fountains, ponds, wrought iron benches, graceful bridges and broad walkways lined with cerimoya, mullberry and walnut trees.
INSTITUTO ALLENDE
The de la Canal family built this sprawling complex in the 17th century as their country retreat. The former home is filled with intriguing patios and courtyards, a private chapel which still contains some of its colonial frescoes and modern art galleries and restaurant. In 1951 it was converted to an art institute offering courses ranging from silverwork to ceramics to Spanish which yearly attract hundred of students.
A SPECIAL PLACE
El Charco del Ingenio, on the outskirts of San Miguel, is a privately funded ecological reserve and botanical garden dedicated to restoring and preserving Mexican flora and encouraging endangered wildlife to flourish. The extensive grounds house a conservatory of Mexican Plants, remains of colonial aqueducts and wool mill and a historic reservoir that is home to native and migratory birds. All this is linked by a network of paths that are ideal for biking and walking and also opportunities for birding. An adjacent Nature Park provides grounds for picnicking and horseback riding. |
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CULTURE & TRADITION
While all Mexicans love a party, it seems that no town enjoys a celebration or fiesta more than San Miguel de Allende. Local citizens take to the streets with verve and enthusiasm for traditional holidays, in honour of national heroes, patron saints; or sometimes, it appears, just for the fun of it.
It often appears there are more reasons for celebration than days to accommodate them, but then this small city has held a pivotal place in Mexico’s history and culture and culture for well over four centuries. National holidays are honoured, but so are local ones, and, due to the large expatriate community, a fair number of international holidays also give cause for a party; with parades, processions, music, dancing and, of course, fireworks.
San Miguel’s most prominent fiestas take place in September. They begin with the Grito; the Call for Independence inspired by Father Hidalgo. Celebrations continue through to the weeklong party of Saint Michael, the city’s patron saint.
Religious festivals continue all year, some, such as the Feast of Our Lord of the Column, unique to San Miguel. The city also hosts a number of prestigious events that attract artists, artisans and audiences from the world over.
Undoubtably, no matter what time of year you choose to visit San Miguel, you will find a party going on.
REGIONAL TREASURES
The city of San Miguel de Allende is an absorbing destination, but the surrounding area is also steeped in centuries of tradition and full of riches. Exploring the roads from San Miguel to Atotonilco, just 10 miles away, is an easy route to discovering the fascinating world outside the city.
The roads snake through the wide and fertile Laja river valley, an area of peaceful beauty surrounded by rolling foothills and dotted with thermal hot springs. The Laja river basin, which has been inhabited for over three thousand years, is now home to quiet rural communities and numerous small churches and colonial haciendas. Following the route of the churches, where centuries old belfries still manage to reign over small dusty pueblitos and remnants of colonial architecture sit crumbling splendour amidst fields of corn, it is easy to gain an appreciation for the heritage and traditions of the area and be reminded of a more fundamental way of life.
HOT SPRINGS
You can ease your tensions and soothe tired muscles bye slipping into a pool of steaming, mineral-rich water at one of the many balnearios (bathing parks) along the road to Atotonilco. The parks range from traditional; with picnic areas and snack bars, to family-friendly; where kids enjoy play areas and aqua parks, to those that offer spa services and full restaurants. All have landscaped gardens and a number of different pools with waters of 82-112 ªF. Pools can be indoors, under the open sky or sheltered by rock-lined grottos, and range in size from intimate all the way up to Olympic.
